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The Benefits Of Recasting Over Refinancing A Mortgage

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After publishing, The Hardest Mortgage Refinance Ever, a reader asked me whether I’ve ever considered recasting a mortgage instead.

My quick answer was no, despite having refinanced multiple mortgages on multiple properties since 2005. I’m all about getting the lowest mortgage rate possible.

Recasting a mortgage can be a good idea if you come into a lump sum of cash and want to reduce your monthly mortgage payment while not having to go through the hassle of refinancing.

In this post, I’d like to explain what a mortgage recast is, its pros, and its cons. Just because I’ve only refinanced my mortgages doesn’t mean that we should ignore the benefits of recasting a mortgage instead. For those of you who’ve recast, feel free to pitch in as well.

What Is A Mortgage Loan Recast?

A mortgage recast is a feature in some types of mortgages where the remaining payments are recalculated based on a new amortization schedule. During a mortgage recasting, an individual pays an additional lump sum toward their principal, and their mortgage is then recalculated based on the new balance.

For example, let’s say you’re 5 years into a 30-year amortizing mortgage at 4%. Your loan size is $500,000 and the value of your property is $700,000 for a 71.4% LTV. Your monthly payment is $2,387.

You’re happy with your lender, happy with your 4% mortgage rate, have a loan that allows you to recast, and you don’t want to go through the hassle of refinancing a loan and paying excessive fees. Further, you just inherited $200,000 from your late aunt.

If you use the $200,000 to pay down principal from $500,000 to $300,000, your monthly mortgage payment will stay the same at $2,387. The only thing that will change is the percentage of payment going towards principal (more) and interest (less). If your goal is to increase monthly cash flow, paying down principal, without refinancing, won’t help you.

But if your lender allows you to recast your mortgage, you can use the $200,000 to pay down principal, and have the remaining $300,000 amortize on a new 25-year amortizing schedule. If so, your new monthly payment would decline by $803 to $1,584.

Determining Eligibility To Recast Your Mortgage

To recast your loan, your lender usually requires you to pay down a lump sum towards principal. Paying down 10% or more is common. There is also usually a small fee to recast. Further, not all mortgages have the option to recast.

Loan recasts are allowed on conventional, conforming Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac loans, but not on FHA mortgage loans or VA loans. FHA and VA loans already give borrowers a lot of benefits such as a lower downpayment and subsidized lower interest rates.

Some lenders recast jumbo loans, negative amortization loans, and option ARMS, but consider them on a case-by-case basis. You’re just going to have to ask your lender whether your loan is eligible. Further, before refinancing your loan, you should ask as well.

Finally, to qualify for a loan recast, you must be current on your loan payments and have the cash necessary to pay down your principal balance.

Advantages of Mortgage Recasting

Here are the main advantages of mortgage recasting versus mortgage refinancing. They are:

  • Reduced Payment. By paying down a lump sum, you will reduce your monthly payments.
  • No Appraisal Required. Unlike a home refinance, a loan recast does not require an appraisal. The average cost of a home appraisal is between $600 – $800.
  • No Credit Check Needed. Loan recasts generally do not require credit approval. This is great if you have suboptimal credit or can’t get the best refinance rate due to your suboptimal credit. The average credit score for a qualified mortgage is now roughly 760.
  • Prevents You From Slacking Off. Given you need to come up with a lump sum to recast your mortgage, you are taking the right step to pay down your loan and pay less interest. It is very easy to refinance your mortgage multiple times and delay paying it off because the amortization schedule always resets to zero.
  • Improves A Transition Problem. In some cases, you might buy a new home before selling your current home. I never recommend doing this given so many things can fall through when trying to sell. But if you do, you may temporarily need to pay two mortgages. If you have any proceeds from your home sale, you can use those proceeds to recast your mortgage to lower your payments. Given you just got a new mortgage for your new home, it rarely makes sense to refinance given the rates probably haven’t changed much and the fees incurred would make refinancing so soon not worth it.

Disadvantages of Mortgage Recasting

Now that we’ve discussed the benefits of mortgage recasting, let’s look at the negatives.

  • Requires A Lot Of Cash. In order to recast a mortgage, you need to come up with a large lump sum. Depending on your liquidity situation, injecting more cash into a primary residence may not be the wisest move. Not only will you reduce your liquidity, you will also forgo any potential returns your cash might generate. If you have other debt at higher interest rates, it may be better to implement FS-DAIR and pay down other debt first.
  • Doesn’t Reduce Mortgage Term. A loan recast will not shorten your loan term, it will just keep you on track with a lower payment. If you want to shorten your mortgage term, you will need to keep paying extra principal after the mortgage recast is complete.
  • Your Interest Rate Stays The Same. A recast lowers your monthly payments, but it doesn’t lower your interest rate. My latest refinance was for 2.625%. If I was able to recast my mortgage, I would be paying 4.5%, despite only having 25 years left.

Who Is The Ideal Candidate For Recasting A Mortgage?

Here are some conditions I think that if met, would make you an ideal candidate for recasting a mortgage.

  • Needs to reduce monthly expenses.
  • Does not have any better investment ideas for his or her cash.
  • Does not want to go through the pain of refinancing a mortgage.
  • Does not have a high enough credit score to refinance to a better rate.
  • Does not qualify for a “no-cost refinance.”
  • Has a mortgage on the smaller side (<$300,000), which makes refinancing cost-ineffective due to the fees.
  • Is a more conservative investor who prefers to simplify life.
  • Really likes his or her existing mortgage rate or can’t qualify for a better one.

If I could rewind time, I still wouldn’t recast any of my mortgages because I’m all about trying to lower my mortgage rate to save money.

It would make no sense for me to recast my previous mortgage at 4.5% given I could refinance at 2.625%. To ensure that I don’t spend 30 years paying off the mortgage, I plan on paying down about $80,000 in principal each year so that I have a zero balance by October 1, 2026.

In my opinion, refinancing to a lower rate if the fees allow you to breakeven within 24 months is better than recasting. I’ve always either refinanced when my breakeven was under 12 months or my refinance was a no-cost refinance.

I also think recasting a mortgage is better than doing nothing because you’re paying down debt and reducing your monthly expenses.

Finally, getting a fixed-rate mortgage amortized over 30 years is better than renting for 30 years. In 30 years, your $2,000 a month rent payment will increase to $4,854 assuming a 3% annual growth rate.

Meanwhile, your $2,000 mortgage payment will stay fixed and eventually go to $0. As an added bonus, you will then have an asset to rent out or sell if you wish.

Recasting a mortgage isn’t for everyone, but it could be for you. Always do the math before making a decision. Look at all your options and feel blessed that you have some.

Related:

Mortgage Payoff Fees And Procedures To Know

Your Rent On Rent Is Always Negative 100 Percent

Why Real Estate Will Always Be More Desirable Than Stocks

BURL: The Real Estate Investing Rule To Follow

Readers, anybody recast a mortgage before? How long did it take and how much did it cost? Why did you recast instead of refinance?

The post The Benefits Of Recasting Over Refinancing A Mortgage appeared first on Financial Samurai.



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Finance

5 Legal Documents You Need During a Pandemic

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As Americans grapple with how to stay physically and financially healthy during the COVID-19 pandemic, it’s critical to make sure you and your family have the right emergency documents. It’s much easier to prepare for a potential disaster than to recover from one that blind-sides you. After a tragedy occurs, it may be too late to make critical decisions.

Let’s talk about the different emergency documents and why you may need to create or update existing paperwork. If you get COVID-19 or have another unexpected illness or accident, these documents will help you manage your finances and make essential decisions with more clarity and less stress.   

5 emergency and legal documents to have during a pandemic

Instead of being caught off guard during a difficult time, consider if you should have these five legal documents.

1. Last will and testament

The purpose of a will is to communicate your final wishes after you die. Too many people don’t have one of these incredibly important documents because they mistakenly believe it’s something just for old rich people.

The fact is, every adult should have a will. If you die without one, the courts decide what happens to your possessions, not your family.

The fact is, every adult should have a will. If you die without one, the courts decide what happens to your possessions, not your family.

And once you have a will, don’t forget to update it periodically to make sure it addresses all your wishes, assets, and beneficiaries. Critical life events—such as getting married, divorced, having a child, or losing a spouse or partner—should trigger you to update your will.

If you’re starting from scratch, make an inventory of your assets—like bank accounts, investments, real estate, vehicles, expensive belongings, and sentimental possessions—and decide what you want to happen to them. You can list beneficiaries for specific items, like who gets a piece of heirloom jewelry or an artwork collection. You can also create distribution percentages, such as 50 percent of the value of your assets go to your partner and 50 percent to your only child.

In addition to dealing with your possessions, a will allows you to name a guardian for your minor children.

In addition to dealing with your possessions, a will allows you to name a guardian for your minor children. And don’t forget to leave instructions for what you want to happen to your pets, digital assets, intellectual property, and business assets. You can create a plan for your funeral, such as where you want to be buried and whether you want your organs donated.

Someone must carry out…

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Car Rental sends me an invoice after a settled charge dispute

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TLDR; Made non-refundable car reservation before pandemic. Cancelled vacation plans after pandemic announced. Filed a charge dispute and won. Received an invoice from the car rental company for the disputed amount one month later.

Location: USA

Before the pandemic hit, I had made a 5-day car rental reservation (prepayment, non-refundable) in early 2020 for a May 17, 2020 vacation. On April 6, I request a refund due to the coronavirus situation impacting my travel plans. They replied saying there is nothing they can do currently and told me to email again within 30 days of the pickup date. In May, the destination where I was to pick up the car required a mandatory 14-day quarantine for all visitors to the state. I could not accommodate for this unexpected additional 14 days so I cancelled my vacation plans altogether. I decided to request a refund again on April 23 due to the unforeseen circumstances as my trip would be severely impacted by the extra 14 days.

The car rental company agreed to issue a partial refund ($100) and the remainder as a one-year voucher (less than $200). I received the partial refund the next day on April 24 but not the voucher. I followed up with an email on April 27 and May 2 with no response. I assumed they were not going to follow through so I decided to dispute the charge with my credit card company for the remainder amount on May 5 (12 days before the pickup date). Later that same day, I received an email from the car rental company with the voucher. Given the situation I had my doubts that I'll even be able to use the voucher by its one-year expiration date due to the ongoing pandemic, but whatever. Anyways, I figured they sent me the voucher before they had knowledge that I filed a charge dispute, so I assumed they'd either cancel/invalidate the voucher once they found out or they'd dispute the chargeback and win. Either outcome would've been fine with me at the time.

Despite this, my credit card company awards the dispute in my favor and closes the case on June 10. With this decision, I automatically assumed that the voucher would've been cancelled/invalidated (I actually don't know whether the voucher is still valid or not). Today I received a notice from the car rental company dated June 24 stating I have an invoice due on my account in the amount of the voucher (less than $200).

So now I have a few questions:

  1. I don't mind paying the invoice but I'd rather not if I don't have to. How legal is it for them to send me an invoice after the investigation and case was already decided? Why wouldn't the car rental company just have disputed the chargeback in the first place during the open investigation from May 5 – June 10? Why send me an invoice after the fact? If they'd had disputed the chargeback, they would've won the case, no?
  2. Since I was awarded the dispute, can I just have the car rental company cancel the voucher and waive the invoice? I don't have any intentions of using the voucher by its May 2021 expiration anyway.
  3. When I originally made the reservation (prior to pandemic), I was expecting a certain product/service. Obviously now that product/service has been negatively impacted by the coronavirus pandemic, I no longer feel like I can get the same product/service. Despite the car rental company's "non-refundable" policy, do I have any consumer rights/protections?
  4. Do I have any other options?

I feel like I went through the proper and necessary channels to find a resolution (but I could be wrong), so I was quite surprised when I received this invoice. Any help or clarification on the situation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

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Is it cheaper to buy eggs or raise chickens?

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Hello! Today, I have a great article to share about raising backyard chickens for eggs, and how much it will cost you to raise chickens. I have several different family members who raise chickens for eggs, so I am familiar with the topic. When Chris approached me with the guest post idea, I had to say yes because I thought it would be interesting to learn more about the money side of it. Enjoy!

Like many, I didn’t decide to start raising chickens with a spreadsheet in front of me.

I had just returned from visiting my parents’ new retirement project, a hobby farm in northern Vermont that was bustling with chickens and ducks and all sorts of wonderful, useful livestock I had never considered keeping for myself until that moment.

After all, I grew up in the suburbs, full of cats, dogs, and the snake the “weird kid” in middle school loved to talk about, and the only “livestock” were the cows that were shipped in every summer to picturesquely dot the fields behind the local ice cream place – carefully kept too far away from customers to smell.

I was thinking about delicious, farm-fresh eggs; endless access to high-quality fertilizer and pest controls; taking control of where my food came from and developing a healthier, organic diet; and of course, just the joys of animal ownership.

Waking up to the delightful chattering of chickens in the yard, getting to hang out with feathery friends on the weekend – spending time with the animals we love can be so intoxicating, you can read more about my story here.

However, starting a chicken coop is an economic venture, even for chicken owners who don’t intend to make a profit off of their eggs.

For a chicken coop to be sustainable, owners have to take into account all of their costs – from starting costs like building a coop and buying chicks, to the regular maintenance costs of feed and supplements, to the unexpected expenses like repairs and vet bills – to figure out how much they’ll need to plan to spend every year on keeping their animals happy and healthy.

Related content: How Elizabeth Reached Financial Independence by 32 And Moved To A Homestead

 

Here is a picture of my chickens.

Start-Up Costs Of Raising Chickens For Eggs

The costs and logistics of starting your first chicken coop can be daunting, and this is the point where a lot of people who had romantic ideas of homesteading with a few picturesque white chickens beside the red wheelbarrow in the garden give up.

I know I almost quit after I spent more than an hour on the town website, looking for a simple list of the steps I needed to take to keep chickens in my backyard –

  • Was there paperwork?
  • What about noise regulations?
  • Did I need a permit?

-and ended up wading through 100-page food regulations, months’ worth of senior center lunch menus, and Board of Health meeting minutes, only to finally show up to the town hall to ask in person and find out there were no paperwork requirements.

That saved cost on my part, because there were no filing fees in order to get a permit, but every locality is different. And every prospective chicken owner should do their own research on their town or district’s regulations before moving ahead with their planning.

The most obvious start-up cost in chicken keeping is, of course, the cost of the chickens themselves. This can vary, depending on what kind of chickens you get and how old they are.

On paper, the cheapest option might seem to be to buy eggs and hatch them yourself. For common breeds like the Rhode Island Red or Plymouth Rock, hatching eggs can cost less than $5 each. However, you should know that chicken eggs do not have a 100 percent hatch rate – for a shipment of eggs, the hatch rate actually averages around 50 percent.

Additionally, hatching eggs can be difficult, and comes with extra costs, most notably an incubator for the eggs, which usually run about $100, plus all the extra equipment needed to raise chicks, which can be another $100.

On the plus side, as kindergarten classes around the country learn every spring, watching eggs hatch and caring for adorable baby chicks can be one of the most exciting and rewarding experiences in the chicken-keeping world.

In total, starting a flock of five hens from eggs will probably run you about $250.

On the other hand, one of the most common ways to start a flock is to bypass eggs entirely and buy live chicks.

This has several advantages over hatching eggs, including saving incubator costs and having to pay for eggs that ultimately won’t hatch.

As with eggs, chick costs vary depending on the breed, but common breeds average about $5 per chick, unless you want a purebred or particularly exotic bird, in which case each chick can cost up to $100!

However, raising chicks will also require additional costs in purchasing the equipment necessary to replace their mothers – things like a brood box to keep them warm while they grow their feathers and prevent them from running off and a specialized chick feeder, which will need to be replaced with a traditional feeder as they get older.

Most of those expenses will add up to about $100 – although the handier amongst us can try to save costs by building their own brooder box, for example.

There are also still the costs of setting them up to thrive as adults, which we’ll get to in just a minute. Just getting set up for the chicks, though, will come out to about $125.

The other option when starting a flock is to acquire adult chickens – either pullets, young adults around 4-16 weeks old, which run around $25 a bird, or rescue hens, fully grown adults who have been “spent” in the industrial poultry world, but will still produce good eggs regularly enough for backyard purposes.

For folks who really want to bond with their chickens and have them be pets as well as livestock, adults probably aren’t the way to go, as chicks that have bonded with you from the beginning will be much friendlier and more trusting than older birds. The main advantage to starting with pullets is the cost savings, since you’ll only have to outfit them once, with the same coop, feeder, and other supplies that they’ll use their whole lives.

 

How much does a chicken coop cost?

Coop costs is the big expense many prospective chicken owners worry about the most, and they’re not wrong to do so – it’s going to be your biggest expense!

And it should be, because having a sturdy, healthy place to live is crucial to your birds’ overall health and well-being.

Trying to cut costs on the coop, by going smaller than you need or buying second-hand, will almost always end up costing you more in the long run, either in medical care or replacement costs for sick birds or in finally ponying up for the more expensive coop you should have gotten in the first place.

While local regulations vary, the rule of thumb for coop size is four square feet per bird if they have an attached run or free range, and 10 square feet per bird if they don’t, which is enough space to allow them to be comfortable, exercise, and gives them enough fresh air to prevent respiratory illnesses, assuming the coop is well-ventilated.

For our hypothetical five-bird starter flock, that’s a 20 square foot coop, five feet by four, plus a run.

This is another area where you can cut costs by building your own, and there are lots of do-it-yourself chicken coop guides and blueprints available online. Just make sure the material you’re using is chicken-friendly and non-toxic, as well as being sturdy enough to last through years of chicken poop and bad weather.

For those who aren’t thrilled about their next home carpentry project, ready-made coops or some assembly required coop kits are easy to find and easy to build.

Small wooden coops start at about $160, though some will tell you you’ll have to spend more if you want to get a really high-quality one, while a plastic coop will usually run about $700.

Which one will work better for you and your flock will depend on a number of factors, but both materials have their devotees. Plastic coops are easier to clean and dry much faster, which will be a huge boon to anyone raising chickens in an area with harsh winters.

As a New Englander, this was a big consideration for me when choosing my first coop. I ultimately went with wood, though, because wooden coops come in a much wider variety of designs and are much easier to repair – another consideration in a region prone to nasty blizzards.

As for run costs, here again you can build your own – which usually costs about $1 per meter – or buy a kit for about $150.

You might also be able to roll your run costs into your coop costs by buying one of the many coops with a run attachment included. As for size, you’ll want to plan for approximately 15 square feet per chicken, though this can vary by breed. As an example, bantam chickens usually need less space than their larger cousins, so they’re absolutely an option to look into if you’re strapped for space in your backyard.

A 15 square foot requirement, though, means our starter flock of five will need 75 square feet total, maybe 7.5 by 10 feet, which is only about $11 worth of fencing. All of this brings our coop and run costs anywhere from $171 to $850.

Unfortunately, we aren’t done with start-up costs yet, as we also need to outfit our chicken coop, with things like a feeder, a waterer, perches, and nesting boxes. Luckily, our five-hen flock will only need one feeder and one waterer, though costs can vary widely depending on what kind you decide is best for your flock.

Owners planning for bigger flocks should aim to have one feeder and one waterer for every eight birds. Waterers can be plastic or metal, with metal being the more durable but also more expensive option of the two. Depending on material and size, a waterer will usually run between $6-$30.   

For feeders, chicken owners have more choices. A wall-mounted feeder can cost as little as $3, and hanging feeders are only slightly more expensive at $7. Trough feeders, which are ideal for chicks and smaller bantam birds, average $15, so whichever one you go with, it’s unlikely your feeder cost will break the bank.

Nesting boxes and perches are also relatively inexpensive; many will often come with the coop. If your coop doesn’t come with nesting boxes, you can get your own for about $10 a pop for the most basic model, which is likely all you need. You’ll want to plan for one nesting box for every three hens. The cost for perches, on the other hand, is essentially just the cost of a 2×4 and a handful of nails at your local hardware store – probably about $5. You’ll want a long enough perch for each of your hens to get about 10 inches of space.

So, when all is said and done, where does that leave the total cost for setting up a flock of five hens?

  • $125-250 for chickens and the equipment to raise them to adulthood
  • $171-850 for a coop and a run
  • $34-70 to outfit the coop

For a grand total of between $330 and $1,170. Ouch.

 

Maintenance Costs Of Raising Chickens For Eggs

Of course, we’re just getting started on our expenses.

Now that you have your chickens, you still need to buy feed, supplements, bedding, and other crucial supplies for your birds. These are recurring expenses, so what seem like small savings on one bag of feed or bale of hay will add up in the long run.

For feed, there’s no need to get caught up in the many, many different types of feed you might see on the shelves – for the most part, your small backyard flock of layers will only need a basic layer feed once they reach adulthood, which usually runs about $15-25 per 50 pound bag.

A good starter rate is to feed six ounces of feed per chicken per day, which means that 50-pound bag will last our hypothetical five hens a little less than a month. Those raising their flocks from eggs or chicks will have to feed them on starter feed or starter crumbles to make sure they get enough protein and don’t overdose on calcium, transitioning to layer feed at around 18 weeks old.

Chickens also need several supplements in their diets, the most important of these being calcium carbonate and insoluble grit. Calcium carbonate helps laying chickens get the calcium they need to put strong, healthy shells on their eggs; it can be introduced to their diet through ground up oyster shells, which usually cost about $3 for a month’s supply. Insoluble grit helps the birds digest their food, basically serving the same purpose as teeth do for people, and costs about $15 a bag.

Free range chickens will need less grit than their confined counterparts, because they pick it up while foraging, but they should still have grit available to them to supplement that.

Another potential maintenance cost is bedding. Here again, chicken owners have a lot of different options, including some that can be basically free, like wood shavings or shredded newspapers. The classic straw is also an option, as are hemp and sand. All of these beddings have their potential upsides and downsides, and chicken owners may have to experiment a bit before they find an option that makes both their chickens and their bottom lines happy. A good number to expect for your bedding costs would be about $5 a month.

Other chicken maintenance costs are harder to quantify – how much they’ll add to your water and electricity bills, for example, or time and labor costs.

You might also run up against unexpected one-time expenses, like vet bills or repairs to your coop or your run. These things can be difficult to plan for, so make sure to keep a cushion in your chicken budget so you can comfortably cover any surprises that might come up.

Based on these numbers, though, our hypothetical starter flock of five hens will cost about $45 a month in maintenance and upkeep, for a yearly total of about $516.

 

Are backyard chickens worth it?

Of course, keeping chickens isn’t all about the bottom line.

It’s almost impossible to put a monetary value on most of the benefits we reap from our feathery friends, including the joys of their company and the myriad mental and physical health benefits of keeping a backyard barnyard.

For my part, watching my five-year-old niece absolutely glow when she finally got a hen to hop into her lap after months of trying was worth, conservatively, about $1 million in oyster shells and layer feed.

And many others have written more eloquently than I about the joys and sorrows of chicken keeping.

Suffice it to say that a single number cannot possibly sum up all the costs and benefits of chicken keeping.

For those obsessed with the numbers, though, we can come up with a rough per-egg cost of keeping hens. Your average hen produces about 200 eggs per year, though, again, this varies widely by breed and also depends on the health and age of your chickens. That means our five-hen flock will produce about 1000 eggs per year, for a first-year cost of between 84 cents and $1.69 per egg.

Every year after that, though, will yield a per egg cost of about 52 cents. I don’t know about you, but I think it’s worth it. 

Author bio: Chris Lesley has been Raising Chickens for over 20 years and today keeps 11 chickens. She can remember being a young child when her grandad first taught her how to hold and care for chickens. She also holds a certificate in Animal Behavior and Welfare and are interested in backyard chicken health and care. Her work has been shared on HuffPost, Mother Nature Network, Community Chickens, Mother Earth News and many more outlets. You can find Chris at Chickens and More.

Are you interested in raising backyard chickens for eggs? Have you ever thought about the money side of it all?

The post Is it cheaper to buy eggs or raise chickens? appeared first on Making Sense Of Cents.



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