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The Recommended Split Between Passive And Active Investing

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We know from the data that investing in passive index funds over active funds over the long run is the way to go. Over the long run, no rational person would keep on investing in an active fund that regularly underperforms its benchmark, especially if it charges a higher fee.

Yes, despite the logic, active equity funds still account for about 50% of the entire assets under management of all funds. The simple reason is that a minority of active equity funds do outperform their benchmarks. And when they do, there’s hope. We, humans, live on hope.

In this post, I’d like to review the percentage splits for retail investors and passive funds and active funds/individual stocks. I’ll discuss what type of person is appropriate for each of the four splits.

Please do not confuse the percentage split between passive and active investing with asset allocation between stocks, bonds, and other risk assets.

Recommended Split Between Passive And Active Investing

100% Passive / 0% Active: 100% passive is for those of you who don’t care about outperforming the benchmarks and who are happy getting rich slowly. You are unwilling to take any chances outperforming the benchmark if it means risking underperforming the benchmark.

You could give two craps about where the portfolio manager and analysts went to school and their investment track record. Further, you’re a busy professional and/or parent who has no interest or time in following the stock market. Your expertise in making money lies elsewhere.

You love the K.I.S.S. motto when it comes to investing because you’d rather never think about your money. You have so many more important things you want to do with your time. You believe the primary way you will reach financial independence is through steady investment contributions over time.

75% Passive / 25% Active: You want to get rich quicker than the average person and are therefore willing to take more risks. You believe you can choose the right funds and the right stocks that will help give your overall investment performance a boost each year.

You are a rational investor who also enjoys following the markets. You’re willing to recognize market trends. You may have a slight edge in a particular sector due to your occupation. If an emerging trend seems obvious, you’re willing to invest in a sector fund or invest in individual stocks that should benefit from said trend.

At the same time, you also realize that consistently outperforming your target benchmarks over the long run is impossible. Therefore, you keep three times more assets in passive index funds. Your active investments are in mostly sector ETFs instead of individual stocks.

50% Passive / 50% Active: A 50% active percentage is the highest percentage I recommend for all equity investors. We know that the average investor only returned 1.9% a year between 1999 – 2018, according to J.P. Morgan Asset Management. The average investor trades too much, buys too high, and sells too low. The average investor is an emotional wreck. As a result, the average investor would do best to protect oneself from oneself by investing in mostly passive index funds.

Despite the data, we all suffer from a little Dunning-Krueger (delusion). For those of you who have at least 20 years of investing experience, who have at least beaten your target benchmark for at least 10 years, and who simply love the process of investing, a 50/50 split may be appropriate for you.

A 50/50 split might also be appropriate for younger investors (<30 years old) who don’t have as much to lose. It’s best to learn with less money whether you are a good active investor or a bad active investor. If you find yourself to have investing acumen, you can gradually build up the absolute dollar amount and percentage.

<50% Passive: You’re a professional money manager who picks stocks for a living. You’re also required to have skin in the game by investing a percentage of your bonus or salary into your fund. This way, you feel the pain of your losses and the glory of your wins. Many hedge funds require its employees to invest this way.

You’re also someone who loves everything about the stock market. Investing doesn’t give you stress. It brings you joy. Investing actively is also helped if you are financially independent or have another means of generating a regular amount of cash flow way beyond your living expenses. For example, you might operate a highly profitable lifestyle business or have a massive trust fund.

Since most of us are not professional money managers, trust funders, or have highly profitable lifestyle businesses, I don’t recommend having less than 50% of your investments in passive index funds.

My Active / Passive Investing Split

Since 1996, when I opened up my first online brokerage account with Ameritrade, my greatest wins and my greatest losses have all come from investing in individual stocks. As a young man, I didn’t mind my big losses because the absolute dollar amounts lost weren’t very big.

From 1996 – 2009, I predominantly invested in individual securities. After all, I worked in international equities business at two major investment banks. My income was growing and I felt I had an edge.

But after the financial crisis, my desire to make money quickly dissipated because I had lost so much money. My desire to protect my capital and avoid experiencing as much financial pain came to the forefront. Further, I had started thinking about ways to escape finance since it was no longer fun.

Today, my split is roughly 75% Passive / 25% Active. I continue to own a bunch of individual tech stocks for the past 10+ years. Owning Bay Area real estate and tech stocks were my main two ways of participating in the tech boom because I was too untalented to get a job at a growing tech company.

After all these years, I still enjoy following all the economic, political, and company-specific news that could affect share prices. However, as a dad to a toddler now, I no longer have the time to analyze cash flow statements and get onto quarterly management conference calls.

I like the combination of having a core S&P 500 index fund, some sector ETFs, and individual stock names. It’s my “Passive Plus” strategy.

The Recommended Split Between Passive And Active Investing

I also sold my actively managed SF rental property in 2017 that was giving me nightmares. 35% of the proceeds were invested in dividend ETFs, 35% was invested in California municipal bond funds, and was invested 30% in real estate crowdfunding. It feels great to earn income passively.

My main financial goal in my 40s and beyond is to protect the capital I’ve accumulated. I also want to buy as much time as possible. If I can grow our net worth by 5% a year without any stress, I’ll be happy. To do so, I’ve been more focused on the appropriate asset allocation split between stocks, bonds, cash, and alternative investments.

I know there’s a lot of talk about passive investing being in a bubble. But the vast majority of people should still have the vast majority of their investments in passive investments. There will eventually be another correction and I’m sure the majority of actively run funds will correct even more when the time comes.

Investing mostly in passive funds doesn’t mean you should be a zombie and just invest 100% in a particular passive equity index fund. You’ve got to diversify your investments to match your specific financial goals and risk tolerance. You should also review your investments at least once a quarter.

Find a way to get rich slowly through passive investing and find multiple ways to get rich slowly through active investing. You can and will be able to accelerate your wealth by taking actions. But it’s up to you to find the right balance.

Readers, what is your split between passive and active investing and why? What are your investment goals?

The post The Recommended Split Between Passive And Active Investing appeared first on Financial Samurai.



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For 5 years we have tracked every single transaction in and out of our accounts using YNAB. The results are revealing.

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Hi all, I was reading a post on another sub of someone sharing their expenses for last year when it got me thinking about my own and it hit me: this month marks 5 years that my wife and I have been using YNAB! So I decided to take some time and reflect and figured I would share. By all means let me know if there are things I miss in this data!

For starters, wow what an absolute change 5 years has made and not just financially. YNAB itself brought upon us the concept of budgeting and tracking out finances when up until that point our lives had consisted of a "buy it, figure out how to pay for it later" mentality. Thankfully we were never really big spenders so we started from a decent spot. Secondly, looking at this it's relatively easy for me to see life changes along the way. From renting to mortgage, from having non-mortgage debt to having none. Life uh, finds a way.

Let's start at the top and look at total spending over the past 5 years https://imgur.com/LVlo2DY

Nearly $500k, ouch. Breaking it down further though it looks like 32% of that went to Savings which is our largest top-level category followed by Monthly bills(ouch again). Debt was a pain and everyday expenses really added up as well. Instead of looking at raw totals though I think taking a look at how things have changed over time is better https://imgur.com/geobw9v

Apologies but it looks like YNAB does not include a legend so here is what the colors mean:

  • Red – Monthly bills
  • Orange – Everyday Expenses
  • Green(Beige?) – Savings
  • Blue – Debt

A couple of trends/events I am able to pluck out of this:

  • Non-mortgage debt was eliminated mid-2018(yay) meaning up until that point it was much more than a 17% expense that the totals had shown
  • Monthly bills were pretty bang on until mid 2016. Correlates with a cross country move. Everyday Expenses took a beating for a couple of months as well
  • Monthly expenses spiked in mid 2017 and haven't really come down. This reflects the transition from renting to owning
  • Savings is highly irregular. Spikes I can mostly explain as IRA contributions.. but the more frequent minor irregularties not so much The last couple of years the bulk of the savings comes in the first couple months of a new year when contributions can be made

That provides a pretty good high-level overview, let's take a peak at the 4 different master categories individually. Starting with savings https://imgur.com/pfTyopB

Sounds about right, looks like IRA contributions have made up about 50% of the category. I'm also assuming this has some 2014 contributions in there as well given the totals. After that the totals seem to get a bit smaller with other things we have saved up for including purchasing a home, going on vacation, gifting and donating and thankfully we really haven't had to use our emergency fund all that much in the last 5 years! Woohoo. What in the world is going on with Services/appliances/Electronics though? I did a little digging and it looks like it mostly breaks down thus: * $15k landscaping and house projects * $5.5k "we bought a house now we need a washer/dryer/lawn mower etc. for it" * $5k one-time luxury purchases * $4k electronics (phone's/TV/routers etc.) * $2k furniture * $2k misc services (plumbers/chimney sweepers etc.)

I would not have guessed we spent that much on electronics. Holy hell. : Moving on to the next category: Monthly bills https://imgur.com/iaHtkvS

Right off the bat: putting a roof over our heads is expensive. To the tune of nearly 82% of the entire category over the last 5 years. Second observation.. these subcategories are all over the place. "Electricity" and "Utilities"? Oh right.. we basically got lazy sometime in 2016 and decided to stop tracking electricity and lump it in with gas/garbage/water in the "utilities" category. Looking closer at utilities:

  • Nearly $4.5k is from LP.. which just began in 2017 with the home purchase. We need to switch, that's ridiculous!
  • Another $1k in natural gas for the previous 2 years(MUCH CHEAPER)
  • Rest mostly electric with water/trash combining for not even $50/month over the period

Nothing else too exciting about this category. Next up.. every day expenses https://imgur.com/leMPHm7

This one I'm kind of proud of. This is where I feel like we have a lot of control over our spending. Right off the bat, our largest expense is groceries consuming nearly a quarter of the entire subcategories cost. Over 5 years though, that comes out to around $400/month. Not too shabby if I do say so myself! The next highest, homegoods is a bit high for my liking as is miscellaneous but they are what they are I suppose. For our budgeting homegoods is basically things like cleaning supplies, paper products, decorations, health and beauty and so on. Misc are things like car registrations, haircuts, credit card fees, amazon prime etc. For the last year we have only budgeted $50 a month for this category, although looking at purchases from a few years ago it looks like we were just throwing random junk in here that belongs better elsewhere. Maybe I'm not so proud of this master category. Oh well, live and learn I suppose! Last observation: pets are cheap, awesome. Sub categories are clothing/work expenses/and laundry from when we used to have to go to a laundromat.

Now the last category, and my least favorite: debt https://imgur.com/bytFahV

As previously mentioned this was tracking non-mortgage debt. That came down to 2 types for us, a car loan and the dreaded student loans. Actually, I think this category is the one to be the most proud of. We paid off $70k in student loan debt in 3 years. Hell ya. I know that there was at least another $30k dent put in the 3 years before that as well. Took longer than we had hoped, but in the end it's good to have that boat anchor off of our necks. Other than that, not really much to see/say for this category.

Well.. this post got uh.. long and a bit of rambling. I apologize. I more or less did this live. A couple of big takeaways.

  • Tracking your spending like this not only has the power to change your behavior and life, it also allows you to reflect on the life changes that occur and how they impact your finances. The spending over time chart is my favorite I think
  • Refinement along the way is key. When you begin your budget categories may be too granular for you or not granular enough. Tweak as you go and keep moving forward
  • There are always things you can do better and things you rock at. Your assumptions may not always match the facts. The way to tell is to first have the data and secondly to analyze. Short of that you're just guessing. I know I wish I had started sooner to see what the 5 years before this looked like
  • Plan long term where able with your budget. This is not reflected in the numbers posted, but initially we used to plan 1-month ahead in our budget. Then we need a new car. Or furniture. Or <insert expensive thing we had not saved for over the last x months>. The result: scrambling to find the money and spiking the funding of a subcategory for that month in order to cover the expense. Now we try to plan ahead all of those purchases, even the ones that are many years out like a new vehicle so we can spread the cost out over time
  • 5 years is a loooong time.

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The Cheapest Renters Insurance Companies Georgia 2020

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Georgia is one of the most expensive states for renters insurance, as they’re the sixth most expensive state, with premiums around $243 annually in 2017 compared to the average premium of $180 in the United States. Even with the extra cost in Georgia, renters insurance can be affordable and can save you a lot of money if something happens that would require you to use your coverage.

Find the Best Renter Insurance

Enter your ZIP code below and be sure to click at least 2-3 companies to find the very best rate.

When considering renters insurance, there are several things to consider:

  • Personal property: This is the amount that covers your items should they incur damage from fire, flood, weather or other covered events
  • Personal liability: Personal liability covers medical bills for anyone who’s injured in your home or on your property. It can also protect you from expenses if you’re legally responsible for damage on someone else’s property.
  • Loss of use coverage: This provides financial assistance for temporary living expenses if your apartment becomes uninhabitable.

With these factors in mind, how much renters insurance do you need? This depends on the value of the items in your home. To demonstrate, if you’re a college student who doesn’t have many valuable items, you could afford to have a lower personal property amount. Or, if you have collectibles, artwork or other high-priced equipment, you’ll want more protection to cover them. Likewise, if you have a dog that might bite someone, more personal liability protection could be useful.

Best rental insurance companies in Georgia

When searching for the best renters insurance companies in Georgia, consider a provider’s reputation for delivering customer service (the J.D. Power & Associates customer satisfaction survey is a helpful resource), it’s financial strength that indicates if they can pay out claims (AM Best rating) and their price offerings. With this in mind, here are the best of the best:

  • Liberty Mutual: Liberty Mutual earned top marks for its financial strength, as it rated A with AM Best. This indicates the company has strong financial health and should be able to pay its policyholders’ claims.
  • Nationwide: Nationwide made the list on the strength of its customer service. That said, Nationwide tends to be a more expensive option when compared to State Farm or Liberty Mutual.
  • State Farm: State Farm makes the list because they earned a five out of five rating with J.D. Power, demonstrating a high level of customer satisfaction. What’s more, when we did a quote with State Farm, it was the cheapest traditional provider available, with rates beginning at $242 annually.
  • USAA: Last, but certainly not least is USAA. It’s the gold standard for insurance companies because it earned a five out of five overall in J.D. Power’s customer satisfaction ratings. USAA is also among the least expensive providers with some of the most responsive customer service. This company only serves military members and their families.

Taking these things into account, here’s how the top Georgia renters insurance companies measure up to each other:

Provider J.D. Power Rating AM Best Rating BBB Grade
Liberty Mutual 2 out of 5 A A
Nationwide 2 out of 5 A+ A+
State Farm 5 out of 5 A++ A+
USAA 5 out of 5 A++ Not rated

When comparing renters insurance, you will have certain things that are more important to you than others. Because of this, we want to help you in the right direction by providing the best carrier depending on your situation.

Cheapest Georgia renters insurance: State Farm

State Farm is by far the least expensive option available. When we did a quote for them using an Atlanta zip code for $20,000 in personal property coverage, we received a quote for $243 annually. If you combine this policy with an auto policy, it drops the price down to a little over $16 per month.

Best Georgia renters insurance for online options: Nationwide

Nationwide makes it simple to receive a quote within minutes. You visit the website, go to “start my quote” and fill out the required information. Nationwide also offers a mobile app where you can make changes to your policy at any time, which is a simplified way to manage your policy on the go.

Best Georgia renters insurance for customer service: USAA and State Farm

Insurance can be difficult to understand. If you don’t know what coverage you’re receiving, it helps to go with a provider that delivers exceptional customer service. This is where USAA and State Farm separate themselves from the rest of the pack, as both earned top marks in J.D. Power’s customer satisfaction survey.

Frequently asked questions

How much renters insurance do I need in Georgia?

The amount of Georgia renters insurance you need depends upon the value of the items you have. If you have more valuable items, you’ll want a bigger amount to cover you in the off chance they incur damage.

What’s the cheapest renters insurance company in Georgia?

For traditional carriers, you won’t beat State Farm. It offers the lowest rates with the highest customer satisfaction scores. If you’re in the military or have a family member who is in the military, USAA is your best bet. However, your circumstances might make some companies cheaper than others. Get several quotes and ask about discounts you might be eligible for to find the cheapest coverage.

The post The Cheapest Renters Insurance Companies Georgia 2020 appeared first on The Simple Dollar.



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We Spent $68.24 at the Grocery Store This Week (+ our dinner menus)

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Want to see what we bought for this week’s $70 grocery budget? I’m currently challenging myself to stick with a $70 budget for our family of five. This includes almost all of our breakfasts, lunches, snacks, and dinners + most household products (toiletries, laundry soap, etc.).

For live updates, be sure to follow my Instagram Stories. See all posts on my $70 Grocery Budget here.

I was excited to find some great deals at Kroger, be able to stock up on a few things, and stay under budget. Here’s what we bought this week:

Kroger Shopping Trip #1:

  • 4 boxes Creamette Pasta — $0.49 each with the digital coupon
  • Duncan Hines Microwave Cakes (I thought these would be fun to have for a movie night) — marked down to $0.39 each
  • Kroger Hashbrowns — $1.79
  • Fresh Salsa — marked down to $0.99
  • 1 bag of apples — marked down to $0.99
  • 4 jars Kroger peanut butter — $0.99 each after digital coupon
  • 1 jar natural Kroger peanut butter — $1.79
  • Kroger cheese (16 oz.) — $3.99
  • Pillsbury Pie Crust — marked down to $0.99
  • 3-lb bag of Gala apples — $3.99
  • 2 lbs ground beef — marked down to $1.99 each
  • 3 bottles Odwalla juice — marked down to $0.99 each
  • 2 boxes Kroger cereal — $1.49 each
  • Milk — $2.79
  • Half & Half — $1.99
  • Total with tax: $38.38

Kroger Shopping Trip #2:

  • 2 boxes Kroger cereal — $1.49 each
  • Hostess Cupcake Dessert Mix — marked down to $0.39
  • 2 cans Chef Boyardee — marked down to $0.19 each
  • Simple Truth Refried Beans — marked down to $0.39
  • 4 bags Kroger Frozen Veggies — $1 each
  • Lemi-Shine Dishwasher Tabs — marked down to $0.89
  • 5 packages of Pampers wipes — $0.99 each with Friday-Saturday digital coupon
  • 2 Stayfree pads — $1.69 each when you buy 5 participating items, used $3/2 Kroger digital coupon = $0.19 each
  • 2 Suave shampoo/conditioner — $0.99 each when you buy 5 participating items, used $1/2 Kroger digital coupon = $0.49 each
  • Kellogg’s Raisin Bran — $1.79 when you buy 5 participating items
  • Milk — $2.99
  • Simple Truth Eggs — marked down to $1.49
  • Total with tax: $29.86

Our Menu Plan This Week

Note: When you see the meals below, please remember this: I buy ahead often. Which means that when I find a great deal on something I know we’ll use, I buy as much as I can afford in our budget to have on hand.

This means that you aren’t going to see all of the groceries my shopping trip that I used to make all of the meals we ate.

Please also remember that I’m putting this out there and it’s not a perfectly balanced menu. This is just really what we ate — and I hope that it encourages you to see the real-ness and lack of perfection here.

Breakfasts: Cereal

Lunches: Leftovers, Salad, Apples/Peanut Butter, Mac & Cheese, Yogurt, Cookies, Chips, Random other markdowns/sale items 🙂

Dinners: 

Sunday: Leftovers + Mac & Cheese

Monday: Breakfast Casserole (recipe sent to me by a follower)

Tuesday: Fend for yourself + leftovers

Wednesday: Tyson Anytizers, Broccoli, Brown Rice

Thursday: Chicken Tetrazinni, Green Beans, Bran Muffins

Friday: Pumpkin Waffles, Bacon (Jesse & I went out to dinner with a gift card we were given by his parents — we’re trying to get in some dates before the baby gets here!)

Saturday: Dinner out (Kathrynne had an out of town basketball tournament)



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